'Tivo the Tailor

[altivo]

Sewing. Some of you will remember that project I started with a study group last fall, where we each chose a garment design, then decided on the appropriate fabric to make it from, and then wove the fabric by hand. I finished the weaving some time ago, but have procrastinated the sewing for as long as possible, almost too long. Now I have to finish it.

My design is based on Folkwear's Missouri River Boatman's Shirt, and is intended for wear at historic recreations such as Civil War re-enactments. The pattern itself was created after extensive historic research, based on six samples in the Missouri Historical Society collection and period paintings by George Caleb Bingham (1811-1879.) I like the loose fit and open neckline, as well as the historic authenticity. I imagine Mark Twain and his fellow river rats wearing this shirt, and that's the kind of historic link I enjoy.

However, when you come right down to cutting and assembly, it's a surprise. I'm utterly amazed at how much men's shirt design changed in the hundred years from Bingham's time to when I was first learning to sew. Men's shirts have not changed much in America since the late 19th century, but they were apparently quite different before that. As I get into the assembly, I understand some of the reasons. This shirt is not as severely tailored and fitted as what we get today (even in cheap ready-to-wear) and there are good causes. The front and back are actually a single rectangle of fabric. The neckline is a T-shaped slash that is finished by yokes and facings, with gathers at the collar. The sleeves are likewise simple rectangles with no taper, gathered at the sleeve cap. It has a free flow and lots of fullness, but it also has fewer seams to sew and no curves. If you were sewing by hand or on a treadle sewing machine, this makes excellent sense. There is also plenty of extra fabric in the long tail that could later be sacrificed to make patch material for repairs. Folks expected practical clothing to last for years. They couldn't afford to just throw it away and buy new if they got a hole or tear. It has little gussets and reinforcing bits at points of tension that should enhance long wearability and keep seams from tearing out under stress. In spite of all that I'm willing to bet that the total number of stitches required to assemble it is less than half the number found in a modern man's shirt with tapered fit, button plackets, and full length sleeves.

Photos will follow once I'm done with it, hopefully before Tuesday when the project is due. The weekend should have been enough time, but I've promised to help with the annual spring bird count on Saturday and we expect a load of hay on Sunday. Tomorrow night we're going to hear the Elgin Symphony. Procrastination is bad, 'Tivo.

Comments

[atomicat.livejournal.com]

Yikes! I love your obsession. Um, not my kind of thing but seeing someone take such care and devotion with something they love is wonderful.

PeeWee Herman voice: Well if you love it so much, why don't you marry it! HAHA!! :P

[altivo.livejournal.com]

If that's a proposal, sorry, I'm already taken.

[tinbender.livejournal.com]

Wow! A shirt made by you from start to finish. Pretty impressive and something that very few people can claim to have done.

[altivo.livejournal.com]

Well, not quite start to finish. I could have grown the flax and spun the thread, something I've wanted to try for years. Rita Buchanan says that you can get enough flax out of a plot ten feet square to make a shirt. It's a pretty plant too, with nice blue flowers. That would have turned the six month project into a two year project though. I may still do it one day.

This time I started with commercially spun thread for the weaving. The fit is loose enough that I can wear it with my fursuit, BTW.

[octatonic.livejournal.com]

Just FYI...I'd wear that shirt right now.

Goodly design.

[altivo.livejournal.com]

Yeah. I like wearing that sort of thing. Comfortable and lots of freedom of movement. It looks good too, though most people will think it odd these days.

[goldenstallion.livejournal.com]

Whitewash your own fence, Tom.

[altivo.livejournal.com]

My fence is gray, Huck.

[goldenstallion.livejournal.com]

BTW, the guy is real cute, too. *wink wink nudge nudge*

[altivo.livejournal.com]

*looks again* You're right. That isn't the photo that's on the pattern envelope, and I didn't pay much attention.

[hellmutt.livejournal.com]

Sounds difficult to this non-fabricky hound, but looks great. I look forward to the pics.

[altivo.livejournal.com]

Not so much actual difficulty as it is detailed and time-consuming. Like any kind of art, really.

[brokkentwolf.livejournal.com]

A lot of shirts today use ragland sleeves. If the shirt you're making looks like a rectangle then that IS pretty old. Similar in construction techniques to the old-japanese shirts.

[altivo.livejournal.com]

Yep. The pieces are all rectangles except for the gussets that are either triangular or diamond shaped. This kind of design lends itself well to handwoven textiles because there is little waste. You use up everything, and after the effort that went into making the fabric, you can well appreciate that. ;D

Today we see raglan sleeves in informal shirts, like athletic and sports wear. Business shirts typically have a tapered body, separate yokes at the shoulder, and set in tapered sleeves. However, I've noticed that the ruffled formalwear shirts worn with tuxedos sometimes have this rectangular design. Probably some extra conservatism in that particular style, harking back to older times.

Tailoring for furries

[altivo.livejournal.com]

An afterthought: I've just been re-reading Kyell Gold's three Volle books and I'm struck by the amount of discussion of fashion, tailoring, and the color and fit of garments worn by his characters. If you haven't read them (from Sofawolf Press, Volle, The Prisoner's Release and Other Stories, and Pendant of Fortune) you might want to have a look. They are good for many other reasons too.